Giving my loco the rustic treatment

I recently purchased a second-hand On30 Bachmann porter 2-4-0 loco for my narrow gauge wall layout, (which I plan to build over the next few months). The other day I set about repainting the loco because I was not comfortable with the weathering.

Well tonight I spent some time giving the loco a rustic overhaul.

I began by dabbing on some rust effect using a Humbrol Rust Wash, placing a fair bit on and then rubbing it back. The wash worked really well on the metal boiler. Was a little more difficult to get the desired effect on the plastic frontage. Next I ran some Humbrol white wash down the side of the boiler and then rubbed this back to get a leached effect.

I was not happy with the plastic cabin (not rustic enough for my liking), so I removed it and then set about building my own cabin out of matchstick wood and PVA glue. I tried to match the cabin to exactly the same size as the plastic cabin, and managed to get it fairly accurate. I placed some diagonal supports between the roof struts to strengthen the structure. I was unsure whether to go with an iron roof or keep it timber. I chose timber this time. For my next narrow gauge loco I will go with an iron roof. Below shows the completed cabin sitting next to the plastic original.

 

Rear wooden buffer in place.
Rear wooden buffer in place.

I stained the cabin with Citadel Agrax Earthsade wash. It is a dark brown wash which seeps into the wood giving it a great rustic finish.

With the cabin in place I then set about creating a similar effect for the front buffer, ensuring the coupling could still move freely and be easily replaced in the future. Below you can see that the chimney still needs weathering and the iron plate below the buffer needs some work.

 

Threw an axe and keg with a mug on front. Hung a chain on the right side.
Threw an axe and keg with a mug on front. Hung a chain on the right side.

With the front buffer completed I then created a similar rear buffer, ensuring once again that the coupling could still move freely and be replaced easily in the future. I then positioned the whistle on the roof.

Next I weathered up the lower portion of the chimney stack, then added an axe and a roped keg (with drinking mug) to the front buffer. With these in place I then hung a think chain on the right hand side from the cabin roof.

Below is a close up of the roped keg and drinking mug. Both the axe and keg I obtained from an old Warhammer Fantasy sprue. They are not to scale but incredibly close. I think they look the part.

Close up of the roped keg and mug.
Close up of the roped keg and mug.

Next I added some weathering to the inside of the cabin. In this photo you can see the bell rope coming in on the left hand side through the firewall.

Inside the cabin.
Inside the cabin.

A full photo of the right had side. Very fond of the axe wedged into the front buffer. If anything the chain is slightly too big. Might replace with smaller links in the future.

Right side shot. Loco is on its way to rustic.
Right side shot. Loco is on its way to rustic.

A view of the left hand side. I also looped a chain from the cabin roof on this side and then added the bell pull rope.

Strung a pull rope for the bell.
Strung a pull rope for the bell.

I’m not finished yet. There is still plenty to do, such as weathering the wheels and pistons, adding a driver and some kindling to the cabin, weathering the top of the chimney stack and adding some further weathering to the rear metal and cabin floor. I’d also like to rework the rust effect on the rear and add some weathering to the iron plates beneath the buffers. There are a few more gadgets I have ready to place on the loco too. More to come.

Happy modelling.

 

Autumn in Hollow Grove

Autumn in Hollow Grove was my first attempt at a OO scale layout. Previously, I had only built in N Scale. This layout was simply two modules, both 1210 mm x 410 mm, placed end to end. Although I intended for the layout to be an English 1940s prototype, it ended up rather a hotchpotch.

Specifications: Track is Peco Flexitrack and set track Code 100. Point motors are Peco. Scenery is Woodland Scenics. Fencing, railway workers, platform, platelayers hut and coal hut are all Dapol. Black Five and rolling stock are predominately Hornby. Woody is an Oxford Diecast.

Enough said, below are some photographs.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - twin tracks
Twin tracks leading into Hollow Grove.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - the notice board

Railway workers read the notice board on the platelayers hut.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - working hard

Railway workers loading crates onto a lorry.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - A well kept woody decorated in autumn leaves

A well kept woody decorated in autumn leaves.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - picket fence

A weathered picket fence frames the Hollow Grove tracks.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - train yard

Railway workers busy in Hollow Grove train yard.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - the loading crane

A railway worker rides the crane in Hollow Grove.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - pine wood

The pine woods of Hollow Grove.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - a black five approaches

A black five departs the rail yard.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - dirty work

Railway workers tidying up the coal bunker.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - another angle of the crane

Another angle of Hollow Grove’s railway yard.

Autumn in Hollow Grove - storing the junk

A railway workers stores a plank while his foreman barks orders.

Happy modelling,

Duff.

RDA’s Delaney Iron Works – Constructing the stone building

RDA Delaney's Iron Works - Completed structure My completed structure positioned on my layout.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

I have always loved Railway Design Associates’ (RDA) structures; especially the way RDA presents its models on their packaging – that rustic water colour finish – brilliant! The kits are great and I have really enjoyed working on them. Yes, you need to do a tiny bit of kit bashing, but it’s minimal and not at all difficult. If anything, it makes the experience more rewarding, and let’s not forget that these are craftsman kits.

These kits can be purchased from the Railway Design Associates’ website, and Matt Gutherie (son of Rod Guthrie who designed and sculpted many of the kits) was very helpful when I emailed him questions. I was surprised at how fast the kits arrived in my post box in Brisbane Australia all the way from the USA.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - stone building near completionThe near completed stone building – awaiting its chimneys and touch ups.

Below, I have blogged my approach to constructing the Delaney Iron Works stone building. My goal when building this structure was to acquire an aging effect; of weathered stonework, leached lime, crumbling and cracked mortar, and a rusting roof. I am happy with my result and believe I have achieved this to a fair degree. Some modellers have commented that the window bars of this RDA structure are too thick and out of scale. Perhaps this is true, however I’m not quite the ‘rivet counter’ and so it does not bother me at all. Personally I think they look fine.

This is my first blog and I hope to write about my other kit building/bashing efforts when I find time amongst juggling work and family. I am not a professional modeller. In fact, many of my efforts have gone horribly pear shaped and are worthy only of the rubbish tip. However, I continue to study the techniques of more experienced modellers in the hope that my skill with modelling will improve. I hope others find my blog useful; especially if they like the finish of my stone building and they wish to achieve something similar. I welcome feedback and criticisms, so please leave a comment at the end of my post.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - Close up of end wall.Close up of end wall. Read below to see how I created this structure.

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How I constructed RDA’s Delaney Iron Works stone building

MATERIALS LIST

Below are the materials I used. A professional modeller or craftsman may use less materials to achieve the same or similar finish.

  • Revell Contacta Professional (glue)
  • Scalpel or hobby knife
  • Light sand paper
  • Range of paint brushes
  • Tamiya Gray Primer (spray paint)
  • Tamiya Matt Black TS-6 (spray paint)
  • Tamiya Mica Silver TS-76 (spray paint)
  • Tamiya Metallic Brown X-34 (tin paint)
  • Tamiya Metallic Grey XF-56 (tin paint)
  • Tamiya Buff XF-57 (tin paint)
  • Tamiya Brown XF-72 (tin paint)
  • Humbrol enamel rust (wash)
  • Humbrol enamel white (wash)
  • Citadel Nuln Oil (wash)
  • Citadel Gryphon Sepia (wash)
  • Citadel Devlan Mud (wash)
  • Citadel Snakebite Leather (tin paint)
  • Citadel Mournfang Brown (tin paint)
  • Citadel Tin Bitz (tin paint)
  • Citadel Green Stuff (putty)
  • White chalk (chalk)
  • Black pastel stick (pastel)
  • Brown pastel stick (pastel)
  • Cotton wool

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CONSTRUCTING THE WALLS

Figure 1 – The four walls were glued together using Revell Contacta Professional. I used a number of sanding blocks to keep the structure square.

Figure 2 – Many modellers have posted their disappointment at the large join that runs vertically down each corner of the long sides of the structure. I agree, this  does distract from the structures beauty, however, this is easily remedied with some putty and quick knife work.

Figure 3 – I added the upper clerestory walls and then glued a supporting beam horizontally between them. This cross beam not only helps to strengthen the structure but acts as a support to hang my internal rice grain light at a later stage. In hind sight I should have waited until the lower roof pieces were in place before assembling the clerestory walls as I had to remove the clerestory walls at a later stage in order to fit the lower roof pieces properly.  I then pushed Citadel Green Stuff (putty) into the corner joins and used a pen knife to carve stone edging into the putty.

Figure 4 – As you can see my knife grooves are not straight and I probably could have done a better job of this, however, in hindsight I realised that this actually suited the crumbling effect I wanted to achieve in the finish.

RDA's Delaney Iron Works - constructing the stone wallsFigures 1 to 4 – Constructing the stone walls

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WASHING THE WALLS

Figure 5 – First I sprayed the internal walls with matt black primer and then I sprayed the outer walls with Citadel grey primer.

Figure 6 – Once the primer had dried, I then ran a wash of Citadel’s Nuln Oil across the brickwork, using a wash brush, the idea being to get the wash in the mortar cracks, however it does not matter if some of the wash stays on the stonework.

Figure 7 – Once the wash was dry, I then dabbed Humbrol white wash onto selected areas of the stonework using cotton wool and letting some of the wash run into the mortar cracks. The idea was to get some of the the stone work lighter and to increase that leaching effect in the stone work’s mortar. This worked a treat and where the black wash remained in the mortar has given the appearance of grout falling away in end result. Note: Humbrol White wash is enamel based and dries with a wet look. If you follow my method do not be concerned about this as this gets covered up later.

Figure 8 – Citadel Green Stuff, Citadel Nuln Oil and Humbrol White Wash Enamel.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - preparing the wallsFigures 5 to 9 – Washing the stone walls

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PAINTING AND CHALKING THE WALLS

Figures 9, 10 & 11 – I began by lightly dabbing Citadel Steel Legion Drab, Citadel Mournfang Brown and Citadel Snakebite Leather paints onto parts of the walls using cotton wool. The idea was to get as little paint as possible in the cracks where the black and white washes resided. I tried to create a sort of camouflage feel, similar to what I might do if I was painting an armoured vehicle. I let each colour dry before dabbing on the next.

Figure 12 – After letting the paint dry, I then began chalking the structure with white chalk. The idea was to get as much chalk into the mortar cracks as possible- really rubbing it in. This process not only got the lime leaching effect happening, but it also helped to tone down the vivid browns.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - applying the paint and chalkFigures 9 to 12 – Painting and chalking the stone walls

Figure 13I covered the whole wall in chalk, ensuring plenty got into the mortar cracks. This was a messy job and next time I do this I will definitely lay down some newspaper. Having a small hand vaccuum at the ready helps too.

Figure 14 – Using my finger I rubbed the chalk further pressing into the mortar cracks. This removed the chalk from the stone work, although I found the more chalk I left on the stonework, the more rustic the building looked.

Figure 15 – I then used a fine brush to take further chalk from some of the stonework.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - chalking the wallsFigures 13 to 15 – Chalking the stone walls

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PAINTING THE WINDOWS AND CLERESTORY

Figure 16 – A quick undercoat of Tamiya Buff on the clerestory walls to get them ready for chalking.

Figure 17 – While the clerestory walls dried, I spent the time painting the windows by brush with Tamiya Brown XF-72. I know many modellers would spray paint the windows to retain a smooth finish, however, I wanted to give a look as if the windows had been painted over and over many times throughout the structures long life.

Figure 18 – Once the windows were dry I fit them by running a small amount of glue along the window edge with a matchstick end. Some modellers have commented that the windows can be difficult to fit. I had no issues fitting them. Definitely test each window in its opening before gluing. I think there were two windows that I had to sand the edges slightly. Nothing to it. You will note that I do not use clear plastic on the insides of my windows to represent glass. It’s a personal choice. I prefer to keep the windows open. However, if I was to insert the clear plastic I would do it at this stage.

Figure 19 – I then ran a brown pastel over the clerestory walls, smudging the pastel afterwards with my finger.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - painting the windowsFigures 16 to 19 – Painting the windows and clerestory walls

Figure 20 – Finally I scraped some charcoal onto a soft brush, which I then applied over the some parts of the clerestory wall to make it darker.

Figure 21 – Some modellers put a clear coat over the chalk to keep it from coming off. I do not do this. I have tried it before and with poor results. I found it tends to give the chalk a different texture and detracts. The flip side to this is that as I continue to handle the structure more chalk comes off, however, this it actually worked a treat because it brought out some of the richness of the earthy tones on the stones. If at a later date I feel too much chalk has come off I will simply add more and once the structure is positioned on the layout it will no longer be an issue.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - finishing the clerestory wallsFigures 20 to 21 – Finishing the clerestory walls

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PAINTING THE ROOF

Figure 22I removed the roof pieces from their spruce and sanded the edges. I then sprayed the roof pieces with Tamiya Mica Silver TS-76.

Figure 23 – Streaks and dabs of Tamiya Metallic Brown X-34 were then added. I tried to mix it up a bit so that some were more watery than others.

Figure 24 – This was followed by streaks and dabs of Tamiya Metalic Grey XF-56. The idea was to use a number of different metallic or grey colours to represent the  different stages of corrosion. In hindsight it may have looked better if I had scoured some horizontal lines across the roofing to represent different sheets of iron.

Figure 25 – I then added streaks and dabs of Citadel Tin Bitz. This colour creates a very oxidised look.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - painting the roofFigures 22 to 25 – Painting the roof

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WASHING THE ROOF

Figure 26After the paints had dried I stood each roof element on its long side and dabbed the top edge with Citadel Gryphon Sepia, allowing the wash to run down the plastic. I felt this would give the impression of a grime build up that might be found at the base of clerestory walls.

Figure 27 – Where I felt too much sepia had blotted, I removed excess with cotton wool.

Figure 28 – The two lower roof pieces ready for final washing.

Figure 29 – To give the roof a dirty appearance I wash each piece with Citadel Devlan Mud wash.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - washing the roofFigures 26 to 29 – Washing the roof

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FINISHING THE LOWER ROOF

Figures 30 & 31 I scraped some charcoal from a charcoal stick and then brushed this onto the roof until the roof looked as if it had been in a fire.

Figure 32 – I then brushed and blew off off excess charcoal before gluing the lower roof pieces into place. You can see in this photograph that the clerestory walls and cross support bar were removed. I had to do this to fit the lower roof pieces properly. The clerestory walls and cross piece were then glued into place again once the lower roof pieces had set.

Figure 33 – With a fine brush I then added dabs of Humbrol Rust wash to the roof edges where water would likely collect. The roof at this stage looks very weather beaten and too old for the look I wanted. So I tempered this later with a dry brush of Metallic grey (see figure 37).

RDA Delaney Iron Works - finishing the roofFigures 30 to 33 – Finishing the roof

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FITTING THE LIGHT AND UPPER ROOF

Figure 34 & 35 With the clerestory walls and cross beam once again in place it was time to insert my rice grain bulb. I used electric tape to hold the wires in position, however I concede that there must be a better way of doing this. I only had green insulating tape on hand at the time and I have since replaced this with black insulating tape. Had to remove the roof to again to make this change. You can see here that I had also glued the clerestory windows into their openings in the clerestory walls.

Figure 36 – With the light in place, I then glued the upper roof pieces into place.

Figure 37 – I then did some tidy up on the roof. I felt that it looked just to battered and rusted, and so I toned it down by dry brushing lightly with Tamiya Metallic Grey XF-56. I then added some more Humbrol Rust wash to the chimney plates and roof areas directly below the plates. I considered snipping bits of the roof and buckling them but then decided against the idea at this late stage, especially given I had already done the painting. You can also see in this photograph that I have run some Citadel Devlan Mud wash over the single and double doors to bring out their detail.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - installing the light and fitting the roofFigures 34 to 37 – Inserting the light and fitting the upper roof

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COMPLETED STRUCTURE

Below are some photographs of the completed (or near completed) structure. I am very happy with the overall result. You can see that I have also added rust runs from the bolts in the stonework.

End view of RDA's Delaney Iron Works stone buildingA view of one of the end walls of RDA’s Delaney Iron Works stone building

RDA Delaney Iron Works - corner viewCorner view. I am glad I used putty on the corner joins. Looks much more natural.

RDA Delaney Iron Works - single door entryThe front door. Might hang a lamp above door down the track.

Thanks for reading. I hope you have enjoyed my first post and please feel free to leave comments, questions or criticisms.

Cheers,
Duff.

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